Multi-ride Rail Pass + NYC Haunts

spilling my guts about my hometown

When I had the concept for this blog it was dead of winter - February - and I was living alone. It was still recent that I was living on an island, and it felt like winter would never end. I had never been so alone. I had never felt the edges of quiet like that. I was being dramatic… It’s now April, I have two roommates, and lately I’ve spent over 60 hours on the MetroNorth, Amtrak, or Shoreline East traveling back and forth to New York on weekends. And I cannot remember the last time I had dinner alone.

Maybe one day we will look back at the great earthquake of April 5th in NYC and what we were doing that morning will be significant. Personally, I had woken up in a friend’s bed, and he had just brought me coffee (thank you Pete), and we were chatting over the French press when the house started shaking. Before or after the earthquake I asked him if he ever moved out of New York, what spots he would miss (he said Mike’s Diner on Dekalb). He didn’t ask me the same question back. In his defense I’ve already moved out of New York, and yet somehow I’m always here. So today as I wind up the north-east coast back home to my island, I’m thinking about the New York haunts that I always return to when I’m home for the weekend.

When on the island, there are not takeout options. In real desperation, in pure resistance to cooking, it is possible to order Thai or Indian takeout. But you need a three hour lead time to place the order, align the drop off with the ferry schedule, and meet the ferry staff down at the boat to pick it up. So, it alleviates the need to do dishes and cook but it’s not a quick fix to a hungry or tired person. Similarly, when I travel internationally, after a couple days I usually crave raw vegetables and am desperate to cook for myself, even just a piece of toast and butter and jam. But on the island, I crave eating out and I miss restaurant culture.

I have lived in New York for 22 out of my 26 years of life. Significant. Growing up with a mother who cooked professionally and freelance parents whose budget was tight, we rarely ate out. Restaurant culture was not apart of our family culture, and it’s a shock to me how easily I fell into the industry in my early adulthood. I only remember ordering  in from Sushi D and National Thai (now closed) once a year and sometimes going out to Habana Cafe in the summer for elotes and the most wonderful red pepper grilled sandwich that they no longer carry. Now my life pretty much revolves around restaurants and the food industry. If I’m not working with food, I’m thinking about food. If I’m not thinking about food, I’m eating food, talking about food, or reading about food (recently read Gabrielle Hamilton’s memoir Blood, Bones, and Butter 10/10).

As much as I love island living - frequent swims, small town, seasonal living, silence - I am highly social and always in pursuit of fun & novelty. I fill my trips to New York with packed friend visits, late nights out, and minimal time at the apartment. Despite valuing novelty, there are traditions / places / vibes that I always return to, like a homing pigeon. The blessing of becoming a regular is making friends with staff, and the inevitable free food and drinks that come along with it. Of all the generous comp-ed things I was given last weekend, the best was the bartender at Upstairs who insisted on giving me a shot to thank me for ordering with manners. He said I have no idea how important please and thank you is. So sweet.

After many trips to New York in 2024, these are the places I frequent and crave most.

Eating: When I want Dim Sum, which is often, I head to Deluxe green bo. Everyone who has loved me has probably been here with me. I order the same thing every time: crab and pork soup dumplings, sautéed green beans and peanut sauce wontons. If I’m organized I bring a cold bottle of wine (it’s lowkey BYOB). When I want a nice meal locally, I go to Harts, and I frequently crave their tuna crudo, alpine Negroni, and am never disappointed by whatever else I try. I’ve brought friends, many lovers, my mother, and sat solo doing the crossword at the bar. When I want a quick lunch, I get a pork Bahn mi and shrimp summer rolls from Bahn mi place - another neighborhood stop, or useful if you’re at BK museum, BBG, or PP for the day.

We all know New York is not the *place* for tacos. However, Nene’s pastor or birria really do slap and they taste better when they're cheaper on Tuesday’s. Optional extension to this visit is happy hour at Cherry on Top (they’re wine list is ok but it’s a good deal/glass+roof is nice), nicer cocktail at Palmettos, or a tall-boy from the deli. When I want a good cup of coffee out, I go to Corto, which is a perfect 15 minutes walking distance from my apartment.

Then there’s going out… because there’s a lot of that for me in New York.

Drinking: On Wednesday’s, Spaghetts and Trivia at Singers. For a first stop of the night and a pint of Guinness is to Hartleys. For amazing global jazz and a truly good mezcal Negroni it’s Lunatico. In the summer we love a frozen painkiller at The Bearded Lady and dancing at the park at a Public Service event. For an event or a really goofy time with mushrooms, we bowl or play pool at The Gutter. For an old film Photo Booth we go to Coyote Club, Carousel, Birdy’s or Twin’s Lounge (all owned by the same hospitality team + The Narrows, Carmelo’s) Begrudgingly I like every single one of their bars. Sometimes we visit old coworkers at Eavesdrop or Ask 4 Janice. I have also spent a couple great nights at UpStairs bar doing karaoke.

Dancing: I have been dancing to electronic music since I was a teenager, but it wasn’t until the last few years in New York that I got serious about trying different venues and following DJs. After many many nights out, including failed entries into Basement, non-stop two day parties at Nowadays, and sticky summer parties in the Le Bain pool, there are only a handful of venues I now trust the music / crowd / vibe at to visit especially for dancing. Those three include: Public Records, Gabriela, and Nightmoves. Although, we may have just lost Gabriela to TikTok and Greenwich Villager’s in pea coats so don’t come for me if you have a bad night there.

*for more dancing nyc recommendations follow my friends at Clubstack*

This blog will morph again in a short four weeks when the next group of artists will arrive at the residency and my life will revolve around their needs, their work, and their meals. Everyday I will be planning, shopping, and/or preparing dinner for 5-10 people. And my weekends in New York will probably become obsolete. I will spend weekends on the beach, mornings with my grandfather, and evenings with the artist. And I will have absolute fomo for my New York friends who will be looking sexy in riis beach and at day sets in public parks. Ya’ll better visit me. I’ll cook for you.